Last winter, fashion was scratched by the tiger. This summer, designers swear by Hawaiian flowers, Hawaiian landscapes and comic prints. And in all seasons, logomania is rampant in many male parades while (re) here is the madness of the leopard. From Marni to Celine, from Milan to Paris to New York, these brown, sand and black spots are everywhere and seduce. Evidenced by the success on the social networks of the photo of this model with spotted hair matching his coat in (fake) coat of the African animal, taken during the Versace show, and posted with this comment by Donatella Versace herself: "The hairstyle-coat agreement makes the whole story."
Divert his feminine side to blur the slopes
Under the flashes of the spotlight and on Instagram perhaps … But in the street, it's another pair of sleeves. Because if for some time the podiums give pride of place to prints of all hairs, and the leopard in particular, in real life, it is clear that these gentlemen prefer the colors mat. In two words, black and navy blue. Of course, a leopard man in the Paris metro does not go unnoticed. The question of wearing it or not has caused some questions among the staff of the editorial staff.
So, the famous animal motif is it a simple effect of podium intended to make beautiful images, to capture the attention of stylists and likes on social networks, without real commercial reality? Not so sure. On the shelves of the new men's area of the Parisian concept store Merci, which offers a "classic but not only" offer, according to fashion editor Dan Sablon, we find among the oxford shirts and beige chinos some spotted pieces, including sweatshirts. MSGM hoodie and sweat jackets from Japanese brand Needles. "Wearing or not a printed garment is often a question of origin," says the Parisian. Latins and southern countries are more likely to display patterned clothing; men in the North are generally more traditional. Not to mention Paris, where, indeed, men's fashion is sober. We are even known worldwide for that! "Are these richly illustrated outfits for a different market than ours? Not necessarily. "The French are certainly a little more conservative, confirms Alessandro Premoli, buyer for the department store Boulevard Haussmann Printemps de l'Homme. But we realize, from season to season, that this type of room also appeals to a growing local clientele. "
"The best way to assume a print is to mix it with others. Personally, I wear a lot of leopard. I love his subversive accents at the Gianni Versace "
For Mr. Sablon, who is also adroit enough to wear patterns in his personal look, "the best way to assume a print is to mix it with others. Personally, I wear a lot of leopard. I love his subversive accents to Gianni Versace. By juxtaposing it, we defuse its slightly effeminate side. "Because the real problem is there, the feminine aura of the animal fur, attribute of the elegant Catherine Deneuve and the pin-up sure of its seduction, which can slow down the masculine ardor. Or, conversely, become a choice of subversion since, remember, the leopard has often been worn by rockers, punks and grunge – like Keith Richards, Sid Vicious and Kurt Cobain – inclined to play on ambiguity. Already, in the 1990s, stylists like Roberto Cavalli and Gianni Versace had made a flagship of their men's wardrobe.
It's now the turn of streetwear brands, such as Supreme and R13, the label that goes up, to "virilize" its sulphurous reputation. So is their "street credibility", to the delight of new generations. Like the trendy youth of the Shoreditch district of London, where Browns e-shop offices are located, "people are more forceful in their style, more adventurous than their elders, try things, testifies Lee Goldup, male buyer of the English site. Here, we do not hesitate to associate one or two prints to go to work. A behavior that we encourage, regardless of the age of the client. The French buyer of Merci confirms: "millennials (under 40 years, Ed) do not have the same perception of gender as older men. And wear leopard just to show that the print has no predefined gender identity. A visible way to assert a personality freed from diktats. "
Visible is the word. What better than a flashy or unexpected pattern to wake up and stop the customer in his walk in the shelves or on the internet? "From now on, brands and stores are aware that when it comes to fashion, men are the masters of their choice, that they have a very precise idea of their look and a lot less complexity than we think," says Dan. Sablon. For the luxury industry, the man being a woman like the others, priority is therefore given in collections to colorful, printed, optical, more to their advantage on the Web. "Instagram has become the main source of inspiration for many of us," says Premoli. In our highly connected society, images are powerful vectors of communication that drive creators to imagine more and more graphic collections. All means are good to attract the attention of this over-crowded generation. "
From there to that the leopard becomes a classic, there is only one step … that only Hedi Slimane could cross at Celine. As an eternal rock fan, the artistic director of the French brand in the lap LVMH had to propose its version and make a standard as a cross suit. At the other end of the spectrum and the wallet, the H & M brand is currently lining its male showcases with leopard hoodies, tiger-print jackets and faux-fur coats from its collaboration with Giambattista Valli, sold from of November 7th.