Chef of Passerini (12th century Paris), Giovanni Passerini told Victoire Loup (1) his recipe for “spaghetti di mezzanotte”, or midnight spaghetti. “The spaghetti di mezzanotte are a typical dish of Rome and Naples, in reality the two cities dispute the origin of the recipe, he explains. It is so classic that it could belong to both traditions, and consists of a few ingredients: garlic, oil and pepper. It is the perfect dish for a midnight meal, after a binge or even during. At Passerini, we do it from time to time, very late after the service by drinking and playing the guitar. We add anchovies and roasted bread, which almost takes on the texture of minced meat: these are the “Jacques-Etienne” spaghetti, named after one of our favorite customers who was there the night we made this. recipe for the first time. “

For four people, you will need: 400 g of spaghetti; 2 slices of country bread; 4 anchovies; 1 lemon; 2 cloves garlic ; 1 small dried red chilli; 12 capers from Salina; 40 g of parsley; 250 ml of extra virgin olive oil; flower of salt

Preheat the oven to 170 ° C. Remove the crust from the bread and cut it into irregular cubes of about 3 cm on the side. Bake them until they get a dark brown color so that they are crisp even at the core. If you have time, let them rest for 30 minutes after roasting. Then break them with a mortar or rolling pin. Season with a little extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of fleur de sel.

Chop the parsley and set aside. Peel the garlic cloves, cut them in half, remove the germ and slice them very finely with a knife or mandolin. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil, anchovies, chili, well-drained capers and garlic. Be careful not to overheat the oil as the garlic may roast and taste too strong.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil then immerse the spaghetti. Take the pasta out of the water when it is still very al dente and put it in the pan with the sauce, sprinkle with a little cooking water and start cooking. “Mantecatura” : as the pan takes heat, the sauce will bind. Stir for about three minutes. If the sauce seems too runny, keep stirring and turn up the heat as much as possible. If, on the contrary, it seems dry, add a little more cooking water. Once the spaghetti is bound, grate the lemon zest, then add 4 teaspoons of lemon juice, finish with the parsley and the bread croutons. Mix everything one last time and serve.

(1) Cooked,Victoire Loup, ed. Human Humans, 2020.

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