“I was born in Alsace, where I stayed until I was 20. Sometimes, on Sundays, my mother, who runs the D'Steinmuehl restaurant near Strasbourg with my father, would buy us kouglof at the bakery. But it was so dry and dense that it was sliced and covered with jam. I keep an almost traumatic memory! Paradoxically, it was in Paris that I had a real revelation for this traditional brioche from my region.
Indeed, working for a year with the pastry chef Sébastien Gaudard, originally from Lorraine, I discovered a much softer kouglof. It was at his place that I learned how to make it, and I continue to make his recipe at Café Mirabelle, the restaurant – tea room – pastry shop that I opened in 2017 near Père-Lachaise (11th). I serve it on weekends, for brunch, and also cook it to order. Alsatians are happy to find it in the capital and Italians think it's panettone! And I've never seen a