At the head of a real culinary empire, the group Big Mamma charmed, in no time, Parisians, Lille and London, galvanized by the warm decor and transalpine menu of their various restaurants. Founded in 2015 by Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger, their inspiration travels from Naples to Milan via Florence and Rome. New stone in the building, the release of a first cookbook, published by Editions Phaidonon November 14th. The opportunity to learn a little more with his fans of cucina italiana.
Lob'star Pasta (Lobster Linguine), page 159
Big Mamma cooking in 3 words?
Victor Lugger: Gourmet, generous and sharing. And of course Italian! What we like is twister great classics and make a meal a moment of exception, mixing conviviality and pleasure.
How do you explain its success?
What motivates us every day is the idea of giving each person who passes the door of one of our restaurants the best time of the day. It is surely this passion shared by the whole team and the sincerity of the approach that make people have a good time.
In which region of Italy do you draw your inspiration?
Literally, all. Italy is full of nuggets and offers a field of infinite possibilities, by its regional specialties or the variety of its products. Pizza side, it's Naples that inspires us since our beginnings for example. The Piedmont region is a reference for its plin (sort of ravioli stuffed with stew and sage, see recipe of Plin Piemontesi, page 150), for its incredible hazelnuts, for its desserts or for its Bonet, this extraordinary and traditional chocolate flan (see recipe Bonet Piemontese , page 310). We could talk for hours about each region, each city, Sicily, Apulia, Rome, and each of their dishes.
The first Big Mamma cookbook
Pizza Yolo (Pizza with figs, walnuts and mozzarella), page 119
The typical Big Mamma recipe for a quick lunch?
We recommend a good "Pasta bomba rossa" (see recipe page 194), the one that wins every time, tomato sauce (ideally Datterino) and fresh basil. It is the choice of products that each time turns the simplest dish into a marvel. Otherwise, a bruschetta, like gorgonzolina with grapes and gorgonzola (and because we are anyway obliged to open a bottle of Chianti to refine the recipe).
The antipasti and the fetish cocktail to make at aperitivo time?
The "Carciofi alla giudia" because it's fast and just extremely good. To accompany with a glass of Falanghina del Taburno, a small bomb of Campania or then of a Bellini Spritz, like that to remember Venice, with a funky twist.
Gran Carbonara (Spaghetti with pecorino and guanciale), page 191
A dough recipe to make for a first date?
Without hesitation the "Lob'star Pasta", a wonderful dish of paccheri accompanied by a whole lobster. Overall, it's an easy dish to make, but it makes you feel like the best cook on the planet.
3 signature pizzas to be absolutely tested at Big Mamma?
The winning trio would be Margherita, Ober'gine pizza and a Triple Truffle. And when it's season, Pizza Yolo, with figs, nuts and mozzarella, because it's the one that has won the price of modern Neapolitan pizza to our pizza chef.
Burratelli (Tortellini with burrata and tomatoes), page 147
The comforting recipe for a family Sunday?
The polpette, generous beef balls with eggplant, polenta and fried basil leaves that everyone agrees. Or the "Follia di Lasagna", a crazy kind of deconstructed lasagna, the dish I prepared last weekend at home. To see the reaction of my wife and children by tasting them, it was worth all the pleasures of the world.
Your most culinary pleasure dessert?
Level guilty-dirty pleasure, the torta al cioccolato explodes all the counters. Chocolate based, caramel and served with homemade whipped cream. This dessert is unforgettable and surely one of the craziest of our cards.
The Incredible Lemon Pie (Lemon Pie with Meringue), page 279
The most Instagram-like Big Mamma recipe you think?
We do not work our recipes so much according to their Instagrammable capital. What makes us vibrate is to offer good food, greedy and surprising. If we really had to choose a dish a little "wow", it would be surely the lemon pie with its 20 cm of meringue.
Your next projects?
The opening of libertino, a whimsical trattoria, rue de Paradis in Paris, on two floors, with an entrance directly into the kitchen. À la carte, cichettiItalian style tapas, fine and crisp Roman pizzas (for the very first time), and a crazy selection of giant desserts to admire directly on the counters. Exceptionally, we will take reservations on a part of the restaurant, with some dishes only available in pre-order as 1kg burrata or the huge birthday cake Neapolitan. But the highlight of the show will be in the basement, with an ultra kitsch bar. We are extremely excited.
Eat Me Baba One More Time (Babas with rum), page 285
The cookbook La Cucina di Big Mamma, published by Phaidon Editions, 29.95 euros
Release of the book in bookstores November 14, 2019